Sunday, March 25, 2012

Manual Mode Settings in a DSLR

To take incredible photos in manual modes, one needs to learn about each of the settings and their impact on photos. The important settings used in manual settings are:

  • Shutter Speed: Shutter speed determines the time that the camera's shutter needs to be open to capture light on the sensors. To put in simpler terms, consider a human eye. Assume that you have closed your eyes and then open and again close the eyelids fast and you see for a short moment the objects in front of you. If you blink slowly, you can see more clearly than if you are blinking faster. Similarly, the higher the shutter speed of the camera, the less light is captured by the sensors and lower the speed means more light captured. The shutter speed is measured in seconds or fraction of seconds, e.g. 1/1000 s, 1/500 s, 1/250 s, 1/2 (or 0.5) s, 1 s, 30 s. Hence, a faster shutter speed (e.g. 1/1000) means less light enters the camera and captures an object frozen in time. A slower shutter speed (e.g. 1 second) means more light enters the camera and captures movements of an objects as blurs.
    • Ä For taking sport photos or fast moving cars and people, use a faster shutter speed.
    • Ä For taking artistically blurred photos of waterfall, fountains, streams or sea with silky water effect, for night photography of traffic on highways or fireworks use slower shutter speed (a tripod is neccesary).
  • Effects of Shutter Speed settings on Exposure
  • Aperture: Aperture is the size of the pupil (diaphragm) of the camera lens and determines how much light enters the lens. In simpler terms, consider a human eye. In bright sunlight, the pupil of the eye becomes small to limit the amount of light entering the eye and at night the pupil becomes large to ensure more light enters the eye. The aperture of the camera is measured in f-number or f-stop which is a ratio of the focal length of the lens to the Diameter of the pupil e.g. f/8 (which means the diameter of the pupil is 1/8th of the focal length). A 100 mm focal length lens with an aperture of f/4 will have a pupil diameter of 25 mm. The larger the f-number the smaller is the aperture, i.e. f/8 is bigger aperture than f/16 and hence, f/8 enables more light to enter the camera than f/16. A smaller aperture (bigger f-number) increases the depth of field due to which near and far objects are in focus (sharp) and a larger aperture (smaller f-number) decreases the depth of field due to which the subject is in focus (sharp) and other near and far objects are out of focus (blurred) making the subject the centre of attraction and blurring all the distracting background.
    • Ä For taking photos in low light or night photography use a larger aperture (e.g. f/2.8).
    • Ä For taking long exposure photos of waterfall, fountains, streams in bright light, use a smaller aperture (e.g. f/11)
    • Ä For portrait photos with blurred background (Bokeh effect), use a larger aperture (e.g. f/2.8).
    • Ä For landscape photos and people group shot with background in focus, use a smaller aperture (e.g. f/8)
  • Effects of Aperture settings on Exposure
  • ISO: ISO (or Film Speed) is used to adjust the sensitivity of the camera sensors to light. In simpler term, consider a human eye. When you go from a well lit area to a dark room, first you can't see anything. Slowly, as your eyes become more sensitive to darkness, you will begin to see the objects in the room (although less clearly than you can see in daylight). If you go from a dark room to a brightly lit room, the amount of light you see will be too much and the eyes again takes time to adjust to the bright light after which you can see clearly. Similarly, in bright daylight a low ISO (e.g. ISO 100) can take a good bright photo, but in low light the same ISO will take dark photo (or completely black). Increasing the ISO (e.g. ISO 1600) makes the camera more sensitive to light and hence enables to take a bright photo in low light. However, increasing the ISO makes the photo grainy (white spots) at the expense of more light and vice versa. Nevertheless, a grainy photo is better than no photo in darkness, so choose the lowest ISO number that the light will allow for a clearer photo. A high ISO also enables to use a faster shutter speed, hence it is called High Speed and for a low ISO the shutter speed needs to be slowed down, hence called Slow Speed.
    • Ä In bright daylight use ISO 100 setting for a bright and clear photo.
    • Ä In cloudy environment, use around ISO 400.
    • Ä In low light and night photography use a high ISO setting (use the lowest of ISO rating giving the least grainy noise) like ISO 800 or 1600.
  • Effects of ISO settings on Exposure
  • Exposure Compensation: This setting allows the user to increase or decrease the exposure calculated by the camera. Sometimes the automatically calculated exposure value makes the photo under exposed or over exposed, which results in white objects looking grey or grey objects looking white respectively. To correct this, the user can explicitly increase or decrease the exposure compensation value to tell the camera that whatever looks grey is actually white and whatever looks white is actually grey respectively. Exposure Compensation settings are measured in EV (Exposure Value), 0 being the normal exposure, +1, +2 and so on being Over Exposed and -1, -2 and so on being Under Exposed. If a photo looks bright, reducing the EV makes it darker and vice versa. Exposure Compensation is used for taking HDR (High Dynamic Range) photos where the user takes three (or more) photos, one Over Exposed, one Under Exposed and one Normal Exposure photo and combining these photos with a software (like Adobe Photoshop CS2 and above) on PC or on the camera itself if it supports this feature. The resulting photo has high contrast, contains a greater dynamic range between the lightest and darkest areas of a photo and looks more or like similar to what we see with our eyes. DSLRs have a feature for taking three photos with different exposure which is called Auto Exposure Bracketing (AEB). User can set how much difference in exposure (in terms of stops where each stop is +/- 1/3 EV) is required between consecutive photos and then pressing the shutter button automatically takes three photos with the set exposures. Some cameras which have HDR feature do all these steps in camera all at once.
    • Ä Use Exposure Compensation for correcting an underexposed or overexposed photo.
    • Ä Under expose a photo of sunset for an artistic effect.
    • Ä Use AEB for creating HDR photos.
  • Effects of Exposure Compensation settings on Exposure
  • White Balance: White Balance (or Color Balance or Color Temperature) is used to adjust the color intensities in a photo and make an white object look white resulting in natural looking colors in the photo. If a photo is taken under an incandescent light bulb, candle flame or in evening then a white object looks yellowish due to the Color Temperature of the light source. If a photo is taken under cloudy or overcast sky, then the white object looks bluish. If a photo taken in bright sunlight, using a flash or under a flourescent light bulb, then white object looks white. To correct the yellowish/bluish color of the white object, adjust the White Balance (Color Temperature) in the camera to tell the camera that the photo is being taken in yellowish/bluish light and treat the source light like it is white (sunlight/flash). Thus, the mapping of yellow/bluish to white makes the object look like it is taken under sunlight and hence it looks white. The options for correcting white balance in a camera are: Auto, Sunny(or Daylight), Shade, Cloudy, Tungsten, Sunset, White Fluorescent Light, Flash or Custom. Color Temperature represents the surface temperature of a black metal body which when heated, emits Red light, then Yellow, then White and lastly Blue light. Also, due to atmosphere, when the sun travels across the sky, at sunrise/sunset it appears to be red/orange/yellow and when it is directly overhead it appears white. When the sun is covered by clouds then it appears bluish. This effect is not due to black body heating as such, but due to scattering of light by the atmosphere. However, the color temperature due to this is similar to that of a heated black body and it is measured in Kelvins. e.g. the color temperature of candle flame or sunrise/sunset is 1850K and an incandescent light bulb is 2700-3300K which are termed as Warm colors, daylight at noon, flash and fluorescent light at 5000-6000K and Cloudy sky at 6500K are termed as Cold colors. Using these ratings it is also possible to manually set the appropriate Color Temperature using the Custom settings of White Balance in the camera. The user can also focus on a white object and adjust the White Balance to that telling the camera that this object is white and shift the color spectrum (towards warmer or cooler temperature) according to this object's color.
    • Ä Use White Balance to correct a photo under different light conditions e.g. to show a photo taken under incandescent light bulb like it has been taken under fluorescent light.
    • Ä Use White Balance to artistically make the photos Warm (Reddish/Yellowish) or Cool (Bluish) e.g. to show a photo taken under fluorescent light like it has been taken in candle light.
  • Effects of Color Temperature settings on Exposure

A photo's exposure (light or dark photo) can be primarily controlled by Aperture, Shutter Speed and ISO (combined called as the Exposure Triangle) and to a measure by the Exposure Compensation also. Since we are familiar with the settings of a DSLR and their overall use in various types of artistic photography, we will learn exactly how these settings are used in various techniques like Fireworks, Waterfall, Portrait Landscape and others.

Previous Article: Photography Modes in a Camera
Next Article: Photography Techniques - Portraits & Night Portraits

Photography Modes in a Camera

Point and Shoot Digital Cameras are easy to use with built-in photography modes that manages all the camera settings and does all the work for the person using them. Modes like Automatic, Landscape, Portraits, Night Photography and Macro can be found on most of the modern DigiCams. DSLRs also have these features built-in for basic photography as well as some advance modes for those users who want better control and great photos from their cameras.

It is crucial to know these modes very well to properly utilise them at the proper moment and lighting conditions for capturing a good photo. Some of these modes found in most of digital cameras are:

  • Automatic Modes: These modes can be used for a quick photo without any manual settings by the user or for people who want a high quality photo at the click of a single button. The most common automatic modes in a Point and Shoot or a DSLR are:
    • Full Automatic: This mode lets the user click a photo in any shooting condition. The camera analyses the lighting conditions and automatically manages the settings like shutter speed, aperture, ISO setting, focus, white balance and flash to take the most suitable photo. Many point and shoot camera owners use this setting to take most of their photos because it removes the complications of adjusting the settings for each photo and is simple as just clicking a button to take a photo. Entry level DSLR users can even use the automatic mode to capture photos which are high quality and better than point and shoots without the complexity of manual settings in DSLR.
      • Ä Use this mode to take a quick shot if there is no time to do manual settings or to set another more appropriate shooting mode.
    • Landscape: The automatic landscape mode is used to take wide pictures of scenery like beaches, mountains and city skylines. In this mode, the camera automatically adjusts the settings to a small aperture (larger f-number e.g. f/11) to set a large depth of field which captures photos of the full landscape with everything in focus. Since the aperture is small, if the light is insufficient the camera adjusts the shutter to slower speed and hence the camera needs to be put on a tripod to reduce blurring due to shakes. For low light condition, it is feasible to use the Night Landscape mode if supported by the camera.
      • Ä Use this mode to take wide photos of beaches, mountains and city skylines or to take a group photo of people in front of a monument/tourist attraction so that both subject and background are in focus.
    • Portrait: The automatic portrait mode is used to take pictures of people usually nearer to the camera. In this mode, the camera automatically adjusts the settings to a large aperture (smaller f-number e.g. f/2.8) to set a narrow depth of field which captures photos of the subject in focus and the background out of focus (blurred). Most camera models also enable the flash in this mode to fill the face of the subject with light so that shadows are reduced. Also, in most cameras, the skin tones are made to look more natural and softer in the photos. This mode works best if used in proper lighting. If you take a Portrait photo in darkness like a theatre or pub then you may be able to take photo of the subject who will look very bright (burnt out) with background all dark. In this case, use Night Portrait mode if supported by the camera.
      • Ä Use this mode to take close up of people and isolate them from distracting backgrounds.
    • Night Landscape: This mode is used to take landscape photos in low light conditions or at night. The camera adjusts a high ISO level and the shutter speed to be very slow (i.e. shutter is open for few seconds) to capture more light. Due to this, a tripod is absolutely neccesary to prevent blurry photos caused due to shakes.
      • Ä Use this mode to take brightly lit city skyline photos at night or to capture traffic on highways which captures the headlights of the cards as long lines of continuous light.
    • Night Portrait: This mode is used to take portrait photos in low light conditions like theatre/pubs or at night. Similar to Night Lanscape mode, this mode also sets a high ISO and opens the shutter for a longer time, but the flash fires off to illuminate the subject. This causes the photo to include the brightly lit person and also the background.
      • Ä Use this mode to take photos of people in a party or pubs (in low light situations), with nicely illuminated backgrounds.
    • Sunset: This mode is used to capture vibrantly colored photos of sky at sunrise or sunset. The camera automatically sets the appropriate saturation, white balance and temperature to capture a vivid photo.
      • Ä Use this mode to take photos of sun rising or setting and its colorful effects on the clouds.
    • Sports: Sports mode lets the user take photos of objects moving at a high speed like car race or people playing sports like football/basketball etc. The camera automatically sets a high shutter speed to capture a still of the moving object. Since the shutter speed is high, in low light conditions, the photo will come dark or totally black. Hence, for a perfect sports photo the lighting conditions should be bright.
      • Ä Use this mode to take frozen photos of cars, people playing sports, running pets and wildlife.
    • Macro: Macro mode lets the user take closer photograph of objects like flowers, insects and other small objects like coins. In macro mode, the depth of field is very narrow and hence some part of the object may be out of focus if the camera is held at an angle to the object. e.g. The petals of a flower may be blurred if the focus is on the stigma and the camera is held at an angle to the flower. Also, the use of tripod is essential to steady the shot since even a small shake can cause the photo to be out of focus.
      • Ä Use this mode to take extreme close up (withing centimeters of the object) of small objects like flowers and insects.
    • Fireworks: Fireworks mode is similar to Night Landscape mode, but having a longer shutter speed. This mode is used to capture colorful and bright photos of fireworks. The longer shutter speed enables the full explosion of the fireworks to be captured in one photo which creates photos with long streaks of light as the burning fireworks spread across the sky.
      • Ä Use this mode to take wide photos of fireworks or even of night traffic in city highways.
    • Panorama: This mode can be used to take extremely wide photos of landscapes. In this mode, when the user takes the first photo, the camera uses a part of that photo as a mask to align the next photo. After the user takes a few overlapping photos, either the camera automatically stitches the photos to form one continuous photo or stores them so the user can later manually join them using a software. Some cameras have options to choose to rotate from left to right or right to left. Some of the latest Sony cameras (Point and Shoots and DSLRs both) can take a panoramic photo by letting the user sweep from one side to the other in a continuous motion instead of clicking individual photos. Rotating the camera on a tripod will help align the photos in a straight line.
      • Ä Use this mode to take wide photos of scenery or a city skyline. Panoramic photo of full 360 degrees captures the full essence of the location.
  • Manual Modes (PASM): These modes are semi-automatic or fully manual, where the user selects one or more settings to be fixed and the rest of the settings are set by the camera. The most common manual modes found in DSLRs (and in some Point and Shoot cameras) are:
    • Program Mode (P): In this mode, the camera automatically sets the shutter speed and aperture for a suitable exposure of the photo depending on the lighting. The user can manually select any other settings like AF mode, drive mode, flash etc as per their requirements.
      • Ä Use this mode when more control is needed over settings like ISO, Flash etc than Full Automatic mode.
    • Aperture Priority (A/Av): In this mode, the user sets the aperture and the camera sets the other options like shutter speed, ISO, white balance after analysing the scene for a proper exposure.
      • Ä Set a smaller aperture (high f-number) for a wider depth of field (landscape) or a higher aperture (low f-number) for a narrow depth of field (portrait).
    • Shutter Priority (S/Tv): In this mode, the user sets the shutter speed and the camera sets the other options like aperture, ISO, white balance after analysing the scene for a proper exposure.
      • Ä Set a faster shutter speed for sports and slower shutter speed for night photography, night traffic or waterfall shot
    • Full Manual (M): This is a user customisable mode in which the user sets the shutter speed, aperture, exposure compensation, ISO (can be Manual or Automatic) manually to obtain a correct exposure of the photo.
      • Ä Use this mode when full control is required over the settings and can be used for any type of photography like Portrait, Landscape, Night Photography, Waterfall (silky water effect).
    • Bulb (B): In this mode, the shutter remains open as long as the shutter button is pressed down and closes when shutter button is released. Bulb mode can be used for low light conditions where longer shutter times are required. A tripod is very essential to keep the camera still and reduce blur. Also, a remote controller/cable release can be used or alternatively set the timer so that the shake from the pressing of the shutter button does not cause a blur.
      • Ä Use Bulb mode to take photos of fireworks and night photography.

The automatic modes are as simple as clicking one button to take a beautiful photo, if the person knows which mode is best for which lighting conditions. However, the person who knows the basic aspects of photography can use the manual modes to capture even more beautiful photos. We will delve into the basics of capturing a perfectly exposed photo using manual modes in the next post.

Previous Article: Choosing the right DSLR for Entry Level Photographers.......Next Article: Manual Mode Settings in DSLR Camera

Monday, March 12, 2012

Choosing the Right DSLR for Entry Level Photographers


Photography (literally meaning “drawing with light”) is a method to capture a live scene on a photosensitive film or an electronic image sensor and record it on paper or an electronic storage medium using a device called Camera.
Cameras can be broadly classified in Video and Image Cameras and further classified based on the recording medium i.e. Film or Digital.
Technological advances have enabled most of the Digital Cameras to record both Images and Videos.
There are many types of Image Cameras available, but the most widely used Cameras are:
  1. Point and Shoot Film Camera: Point and shoot cameras are very easy to handle and to take a photograph the person needs to point the camera towards the subject and click the shutter button. All the settings and adjustments are managed by the camera. Few years back Point and Shoot Film Cameras were widely used by the general population. These had to be loaded with a photographic film which could be used to shoot limited number of shots per film roll. After taking all the shots in the roll, the film needed to be re-wound back (either manually or automatically using battery power) in the roll for further processing. While loading and unloading, special care needed to be taken not to expose the film to light since that would destroy the film. Then the film was sent to be developed onto paper as photographs. There was no guarantee that the picture would come as desired since the lightings and exposure were set by the camera automatically and the view finder just gave a general view of the subjects (and not the same view as the film captured).
  2. Point and Shoot Digital Camera (Digicam): At the advent of Digital Point and Shoot Cameras, most of the shortcomings of film cameras went away. People could now shoot more photos without the hassle & cost of loading/unloading a film roll, review the photos immediately, re-take the shot if the photo is not proper and deleting the undesired photos. The images can be edited in the camera itself or using a software, printed as per requirement and shared with others using internet. The convenience, ease of use and portability of digital cameras led to the massive decline, if not extinction, of film cameras. Being a Point and Shoot, the image adjustments while taking a photo are managed by the camera and being Digital, the camera includes various automatic modes of shooting like portrait, landscape, night photo and in-camera image manipulation techniques (like Panorama).
  3. Single Lens Reflex (SLR) Film Camera: The Single Lens Reflex cameras are the successors of Twin Lens Reflex cameras in which two lenses were used, one for projecting the image on a film and other for a view finder. Since the paths of lights were different for viewer and film, it caused some framing errors for close up shots. To avoid this, SLRs were created which constitute of a single lens which is used to project the image on the film and a mirror and prism system to reflect the same image to the view finder. When the shutter button is pressed, this mirror moves away and the image is projected on the film directly. SLRs are expensive and mostly popular with professional photographers and enthusiasts who cannot compromise on the image quality and need high customization for capturing a photo. SLR cameras employ interchangeable lenses that can be attached or removed as per the user requirements.
  4. Digital Single Lens Reflex (DSLR) Camera: DSLRs combine the customizations of an SLR and convenience of Digital cameras.
In this series, we will delve deeper into the DSLR Camera and its working.

Need for DSLR Camera:
The point and shoot digital cameras are very basic and popular cameras used by the general population who are interested to capturing a candid moment any time, any place. Now a days the cameras have become so slim that they can be carried anywhere in pockets and instantly ready to capture any special moment at the click of a button. Another nifty camera that we carry around everyday is our very own mobile phone.
Digital point and shoots have been threatened by the advancement in mobile phones which now incorporate digital cameras with nearly similar quality as standalone dedicated cameras. Even though the mobile cameras are not as good as standalone cameras in terms of optical zoom, flash and Megapixel rating, the biggest advantage of mobile cameras is that we carry it everywhere with us, can capture a moment quickly and share it with friends instantaneously over the internet. Also, the Geo-tagging feature using GPS (Global Positioning System) included in many of the mobile phones recently, ensure that we don’t forget the location the photo was taken. To compete with these, some camera manufacturers have also tried to incorporate some of these features in their standalone digital camera like wider and longer lens, more in-camera editing like panorama, GPS, WiFi and water resistance.
Now, the DSLRs have biggest disadvantage as compared to these point and shoot cameras that it is very bulky and can’t be carried around for regular outings. However, these shortcomings are compensated (rather heavily) by the amazing quality and wide range of customizations that can be possible in DSLR cameras. This is due to various interchangeable lenses which are much better in quality than point and shoot lenses since the DSLR lens is big enough to include better optics and complex lens elements adding more light to the photo.
Also, the Image Sensor (the Retina of the camera) of DSLR cameras is bigger (and costlier to produce) than point and shoots and mobile cameras (which have the smallest of all). Bigger Image Sensor results in less noise in low light scenario and hence can use much higher ISO settings for a brighter photo in low light without including much grainyness in the image. DSLRs have a sensor size of 22-43 mm diagonally, whereas Compact cameras have smaller sensor typically 6-10 mm diagonally and Mobile cameras have 3-9 mm diagonally. As the sensor gets smaller, more CCD/CMOS sensors are compacted together and the interference caused due to adjacent CCD/CMOS sensors or wiring causes artifacts and grainyness in the photo.
So, for those people, who want excellent quality photos, do not mind carrying an extra bag for the camera and want to learn more about photography, DSLR is the right tool needed.

So, to summarize:
Mobile Camera:
  • To take candid photos or capture an interesting scene on the go.
  • Where there is more priority on capturing an instantaneous photo than an excellent image quality.
  • Immediate sharing with people via SMS, Email, Social networks or blogs.
  • Geo-tagging of photos.
  • For minimum use of flash or where flash needs to be used only for short distance.
  • To use various in-built filters or image editing features like panorama or HDR (High Dynamic Range).
  • Limited burst photos (multiple photos taken continuously) using either built-in software or 3 rd party apps, although mostly possible in brightly lit environment.

Digital Point and Shoot Camera:
  • Image quality is better than mobile cameras.
  • Powerful telephoto (zoom) to take photos of subjects far away and wide photos to capture a large number of people standing short distance from the photographer.
  • Due to the portability of the camera, it can be carried out on most occasions.
  • Powerful flash to take better illuminated photos.
  • To use various in-built filters or image editing features like panorama.
  • Better burst photos than mobile cameras and in low light.
  • Silent operation and much cheaper than DSLR cameras.

Digital SLR:
  • Image quality is of utmost importance to take photos like professionals.
  • If it is possible to carry out the heavy camera along with other lens in a separate bag.
  • Where there is a need to take super wide or long distance photos with consistent and high image quality.
  • Night portraits or landscape needs to be taken in low light.
  • To take RAW photographs with full details and no compression to be modified later on a computer.
  • To take portraits with highly blurred backgrounds (called Bokeh effect).
  • Very high burst rate with good image quality even in very low light.
  • Larger image sensor which results in less grainy photos in low light than a Point and Shoot which has smaller sensor.
  • Interchangeable, High Quality lenses that can be used for customizing the camera for specific purposes like Portraits, Landscapes, Architecture, Macro and Wildlife Photography.
  • Startup time in a DSLR is very low, hence can be used to capture quick shots after switching on the camera from switched off.
  • Large variety of accessories to choose from, like external flash, wired/wireless remote control and additional battery packs.

Moving from Digital Point n Shoot Cameras to DSLRs:
For all the people who want to learn “real” photography or simply want to take better quality photos, Digital SLR is the right tool to move ahead. Learning basic photography on DSLR can result in better photos than most point and shoot cameras and people can even use this knowledge to take better photos using their point and shoot cameras when carrying a bulky DSLR is cumbersome to some events.

Choosing the entry level DSLR:
For the user who wants to begin with a DSLR, the following steps will help choose a DSLR just right for you:
  1. Camera Body: A camera body is the main unit of the DSLR Camera into which different lens can be attached. For the average users, the main body doesn’t make much difference in photo quality. Also, the difference between an entry level DSLR body and a higher end body are only a few features such as Megapixel, Burst Ratio, video capability. So, if a person wants to learn photography at beginner level, choose an entry level DSLR body like Canon EOS 550D / 1100D or Nikon D3100 / D5100. Frankly, the higher Megapixel rating doesn’t make much difference for the average user unless you want to make huge poster prints of your photographs. I have an 18 megapixel camera body, but mostly I use 8 megapixel for general photography. For a good quality digital photo and small prints, anything more than 5 Megapixel is OK.
  2. Lens: The high image quality of a DSLR depends mostly on a good lens rather than an expensive body and hence, Lens is the most important part of the DSLR. The size of the lens and its construction are the factors that allow more light to enter the camera and hence give excellent results even in low light or fast enough for taking sports photos.
    There are several types of lens, most common of them being:
    • Wide: This lens allows capturing a bigger & wider image, so it can be used to take wide landscape photos or capture a big group of people standing close to the photographer. This lens can be classified into Wide, Super Wide and Fish-Eye lens based on the angle of view they can capture.
    • Telephoto (Zoom): This lens allows capturing objects which are far away from the photographer and can be used for wildlife photography or sports. The focal length of the lens can be varied from a specific minimum to a maximum. e.g. an 18-55 lens can take photos from 18mm to 55mm focal length. The magnification factor is 55/18 = 3 i.e. this lens has a 3X optical zoom.
    • Macro: This lens allows capturing extreme close-ups of small objects like a flower or a bug. An accessory lens called Close-up lens can also be used attached to other lens to take close up or macro photos.
    • Fixed-Focal (Prime): This lens allows capturing excellent portraits with a high depth of field (giving a Bokeh or blurred background effect). Due to their simple construction and non-moving parts Prime lens are cheaper, smaller and lighter to carry. They have a large maximum aperture size to take in more light to the camera sensors and due to this they can be used for a faster shutter speed (i.e. less exposing time required).
    • Extender (Teleconvertor): This lens is used along with another lens to increase its effective range. e.g. a 2.0X Extender can extend the focal length of a 50mm lens to 100mm. Normally the cost of an extender and a moderate zoom lens is cheaper than the cost of super zoom lens.
    For an entry level photographer, divide your budget so that you can maximize the cost of lens and minimize the cost for body. The type of lens to be chosen is based on the type of photography the person wants to take part in.
    If you want to take landscape or architectural photos, go for Wide lens.
    For taking extreme close-ups of miniature objects, get a Macro lens.
    For taking wildlife or bird photography, get a telephoto lens with higher focal range like a 75-300 mm lens.
    For general purpose photography get a telephoto lens with a focal range from wide to telephoto, e.g. an 18-55 mm lens can be used for general photography from wide (18mm) to 55mm telephoto. However, if you require a higher range of focal length, then go for a 55-250 mm lens which can take photos of very far objects.
    Instead of getting two different telephoto lenses and changing them regularly, I preferred to choose an 18-200 mm lens which covers a large range of focal lengths (18mm Wide to 200mm Telephoto). Although, the cost of this one lens is somewhat higher than the total cost of two separate lenses, the quality difference is minimal and the convenience of carrying only one lens makes it worth the money.
    For taking amazing portraits, get a Prime lens. These lenses are very cheap, fast and take beautiful pictures with blurred backgrounds even in very low light situations without the use of flash. These factors of Prime lens make it a MUST HAVE lens in every photographer’s arsenal. The cheapest of the Prime lens (from Canon’s product range) is Canon EF 50 f1.8 II which comes for around S$150. Its faster brother EF 50 f1.4 USM is a bit costlier, but can be used to take faster photos with a bigger aperture (f1.4 instead of f1.8).
  3. Filters:
  4. Filters are glass or plastic discs which can be installed on the front of the lens for some photographic effects like Black and White, Polarizing, UV Blocking or Close-Up. Some commonly used types of filter are:
    • Clear Filters: These filters have no effect on the photos captured, but are simply used to add some protection to the main lens from dust, water or cracking from a fall.
    • UV Filters: These are used to block the Ultra Violet rays that can distort a photo in bright day light.
    • Polarizing Filters: These are used to reduce glare from the surface of non-metallic objects or the reflections from water surface. Due to this effect, water surface looks transparent instead of reflecting the sky. Polarizer blocks some amount of light and hence needs more exposure time to compensate for that. Due to this effect, a photo of sky is darkened a bit and looks more vivid in the photo.
    • Neutral Density Filter: This filter blocks some amount of light and hence is used where longer exposures are required, but the surroundings are brighter. So, for taking a longer exposure photo of a water fall in bright sunlight, ND Filter is used to reduce the amount of light entering the camera without affecting the color balance of the photo.
    For a beginner in photography, filters are not a must-buy, but can enhance the photography experience by adding a creative touch to the photographs. It is wise to buy a Polarizing or UV filter just for the protection of the front glass surface of the main lens.
  5. External Flash: Even though the internal flash built in cameras are adequate for most portraits for a newbie photographer, external flash add-on provides improved design like moveable flash to point the light at ceiling for a diffused light on the subject. External flash is typically mounted on a camera using the hot-shoe mount and mostly used for capturing portraits. A separate ring-type flash is also available which can be attached to the front of the lens to illuminate the subject in Macro photography. For a beginner in photography, external flash is not a mandatory accessory and can be purchased later for portrait photography as and when the confidence and experience of the person increases.
  6. External Battery: Usually, the battery included with the camera is more than enough for casual photographers and lasts for thousands of photos without flash and hundreds with flash. For those who go for photography trips in forests or places where there are limited options for re-charging the battery, external battery pack is a valuable accessory to be included in one’s arsenal. These packs are built in shapes that complement the camera design, can be attached to the camera and provide extra stability due to its weight and grip. There is also a shutter button positioned on the pack so that the photographer can take portrait photos using this conveniently positioned shutter button.
  7. Lens Cleaner: A DSLR being expensive, proper care needs to be taken by cleaning it regularly. A good lens cleaning kit with a blower, fine bristle brush, micro fiber cloth and cleaning solution will keep the camera healthy and the lens shiny. A small lens cleaning pen with brush on one side and a curved micro fiber head on the other is also a good alternative. It is always a good etiquette to keep a lens cleaner handy in the camera bag.
  8. Tripod: A tripod is very useful for taking photos in low light or night photography where the smallest of tremors can ruin a photograph. It can also be used to take beautiful photos of fireworks and silky water effect in waterfalls or take a group photo to include the cameraman themselves in the photo. A variant of tripod is the monopod, which has only one leg instead of the three legs of a tripod. Monopod can be used to stabilize the photos by anchoring the leg on ground and using a wall to support the photographer’s body and the monopod.
  9. Image Stabilization: For taking photos in low light or a far away object, the camera shake caused by unsteady hands tends to make the photos blurry. For a sharp image in low light, Image stabilization is built into either Camera body by moving the image sensor corresponding to the shake or in Lens by moving the lens elements corresponding to the shake. If you are choosing a telephoto lens then consider buying the ones with IS built in the lens itself. These lenses are costlier than non-stabilized lens, but the price is worth the hassles of getting blurred photos.
    e.g. Canon EF S 18-200 f3.5-5.6 “IS” is a lens having built-in Image Stabilization.
    This feature is referred by different names by the manufacturers e.g. Image Stabilization/IS (Canon), Vibration Reduction/VR (Nikon), Optical SteadyShot/Super Steady Shot (Sony), MegaOIS (Panasonic), Optical Stabilization/OS (Sigma), Vibration Compensation/VC (Tamron) and Shake Reduction/SR (Pentax).
  10. Auto-Focus mechanism: Modern camera lens features an in-built electronic automatic focus system which arranges the lens to focus on a particular object by half-pressing the shutter button. There are mainly two types of auto-focus systems: servo motor and ultrasonic drive. Servo motor are slow, noisy and consume more battery power to focus the lens, but are less costly; whereas ultrasonic drives are fast, silent and consume less battery power, but more costly.
    e.g. of servo motor auto-focus: Canon EF S 18-55 f3.5-5.6 IS
    e.g. of ultrasonic drive auto-focus: Canon EF-S 17-55 f2.8 IS “USM”
    This feature is referred by different names by the manufacturers e.g. USM (Canon), AF-S/Silent Wave (Nikon), SSM (Sony), SWD (Olympus), ESM (Panasonic), SDM (Pentax) and HSM (Sigma)

Summary:
Photography
Prime Lens
Wide or Super Wide Lens
Macro Lens
Fish Eye Lens
Tele photo (Zoom Lens)
Extender
External Flash
Neutral Density Filter
Polarizer Filter
Tripod
External Battery Pack
Portraits
P





P




Landscape

P

P




P


Night Photography (Landscape)

P







P

Waterfalls/Streams
/Sea/Fountains with silky water effect

P





P

P

Wildlife/Bird Photography




P
P



P
P
Sports




P
P



P
P
Macro Photography


P



P


P

General Photography
P
P


P




P



The must-buy list for general photography includes a cheap Prime Lens, Tripod, Lens Cleaner and Clear/UV/Polarizer filter packed in a light-weight camera bag.
This is just a rough guide for entry level photographers to buy their DSLR cameras. Users must decide the field of photography which interests them and choose the appropriate equipment for that.
For general photography, I myself have chosen this camera setup:
  • Canon EOS 60D Main Body (CMOS Sensor shooting 18 MP photo and 1080p 30fps video)
  • Canon EFS 18-200mm f4.0 to f5.6 IS Lens (Servo Auto-Focus, Image Stabilization)
  • Canon EF 50mm f1.8 Prime Lens (Servo Auto-Focus)
  • Polarizing Filter
  • Tripod
  • Lens Cleaning Kit and Lens Cleaner Pen
  • Compact Camera Bag
  • SDHC Memory Cards (16GB, 8GB and 4GB)

Saturday, March 10, 2012

Apple's New iPad Full Specifications


The new iPadApple announced the Resolutionary new iPad on 7th March 2012. The main feature of the third generation iPad is the beautiful Retina display similar to iPhone 4/4S. Let's see what other features are offered in the new iPad:

  1. Screen:
    • 9.7 inch (diagonal) IPS Screen
    • 2048 x 1536 Resolution
    • 3.1 mega pixel screen
    • 264 ppi Retina display
    • 44% greater color saturation
  2. Processor:
    • Apple A5X Chip
    • Dual Core CPU with Quad Core Graphics
    • 1 GB RAM
    • In-built Image Signal Processor unit (ISP) for processing White Balance, Image Stabilization and Face Detection
  3. Camera:
    • 5 MP iSight Camera (Rear)
    • HD (1080p, 30fps) video recording with Image Stabilization
    • Backside Illumination Sensor
    • f/2.4 aperture and five-element lens with IR Filter
    • Autofocus, Multiple Face Detection
    • VGA Facetime Camera (Front)
  4. Connectivity:
    • 4G LTE (upto 72 Mbps)
    • Fast 3G DC-HSPA (upto 42Mbps)
    • Fast 3G HSPA+ (upto 21Mbps)
    • 3G world ready
    • 802.11 a/b/g/n WiFi
    • Bluetooth 4.0
  5. Size:
    • 9.4 mm thick (0.37 inch)
    • 1.44 to 1.46 pounds (652 - 662 grams)
  6. Battery Life:
    • 42.5 watt-hour battery (70% increase from iPad2 25 watt-hour battery)
    • 10 hours on WiFi
    • 9 hours on 4G LTE
  7. Software Features:
    • Voice Dictation
    • Improved Photos App
    • AirPlay mirroring (720p/1080p)
  8. Storage:
    • 16 GB, 32 GB and 64 GB
  9. Cost:
    • US $499, $599, and $699 for 16, 32 and 64GB respectively for WiFi only models
    • US $629, $729, and $829 for 16, 32 and 64GB respectively for WiFI+4G LTE
  10. Availability:
    • March 16 in US, Canada, UK, France, Germany, Switzerland, Hong Kong, Australia, Singapore and Japan
    • March 23 in New Zealand and rest of Europe

For official specifications go to the Apple iPad specification page

Tuesday, March 6, 2012

Apple iPad Rumors

Apple's invitation for a media event on 7th March 2012Apple has announced that it has something we really have to see and touch on 7th March 2012. Those of us who follow Apple know it for sure that it is the time of year that Apple anounces its next generation version of iPad. As soon as Apple launches a product, immediately Apple fans and media start the speculations of the features the next Apple product may introduce.

As is the case with this launch, there are many rumors floating around along with proofs such as photos of various parts and components of the to-be launched iPad and some entries in beta releases of iOS.

Let us see what are the rumors that are floating around and wait till the launch date to confirm if the rumors are really valid.

Rumors about the next generation iPad
FeaturesRumorsActual (after 7th March)
NameiPad 2S or iPad 3 or iPad HDThe New iPad
LCD ScreenHigh Resolution (1536x2048) Retina-like (260ppi) displayConfirmed
ProcessorQuad Core A6 or improved Dual Core A5XA5X with Quad Core Graphics
4G/LTE supportSpeculations of 4G/LTE supportConfirmed
CameraUpgrade both cameras. Rear camera: 8 MegapixelUpgraded 5 MP iSight Camera with 1080p support
BodySlightly thicker body by 1mm but same form factorConfirmed
Siri SupportSome evidence found in iOS 5.1 beta supporting Siri for iPadDictation: Speech to Text support
PriceRumors about increased price by $70-80Same Price as before
iPad miniRumors about 7.85-inch iPad coming in late 2012Not mentioned
Apple TVRelease of next generation Apple TV or iTV (LCD TV based on iOS)Improved Apple TV with 1080p support

As the working of Apple is highly secretive and mysterious, we will only know if these rumors are true when they announce their product on 7th March 2012. Until then we can only speculate. The list of rumors will be updated after the product launch to bust or confirm the rumors...

Till then, hold on tight!!!

 

Update: Added the confirmed features of the New iPad...